I can’t stop thinking about Canali’s Fall 2013 collection. It practically haunts me in my sleep at night. Bold colors, sumptuous fabrics, crisp silhouettes – I’d love to be standing next to a man in Canali! The collection uses a lot of rich velvets in dark, earthy tones. I loved this look – such a romantic take on tsarist fashions.
Tsarist fashions refer to the clothing worn by the Imperial Russian court before the revolution. It’s hallmarks are velvet fabrics, rich embroideries, cording, fur trim, and any silhouette that gives a nod to military fashion, like double-breasted jackets.
For example, take a look at some of the garments worn by Alexander I:
Canali references these tsarist garments without being too complicated or overdone. The beautiful velvets are paired with slim tweed pants and an interesting scarf with a geometric motif.
Or what about this amazing black velvet overcoat with a fur trimmed lapel? If that’s not perfection, I’m not sure what is . . .
But this jacket really caught my attention. The pattern was such a nod to Russian textile designer and artist Sonia Delaunay! This piece seems a bit out of place with the rest of the line, but it’s fantastic nonetheless.
Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979) along with her husband Robert, developed a color theory called simultaneity ““ the sensation of movement when contrasting colors are placed side by side. She painted, and later designed textiles and garments. The Delaunay’s were two of the greatest pioneers of modernism during the 1910s and 1920s. Their art was more geometric and abstract than representational and Sonia’s fashions allowed people relax and enjoy art in everyday life. The Canali coat (above) bears an uncanny likeness to a coat designed by Delaunay c.1923 for Gloria Swanson (below).
Did I mention that Delaunay was Russian? Maybe that’s why the jacket made the final cut. Can you believe how similar they are? While I’m not sure about recommending the Canali jacket for a man (the right man could rock it for sure, but it takes some attitude), I definitely love it for me!! And I’m sure all my fashion historian friends will be lining up to buy one.
You can look at the entire Canali Fall 2013 Menswear Collection at GQ