Monica D. Murgia

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Ballet Russe

Passion for Fashion at Kelly Taylor Auctions

November 6, 2013 / Leave a Comment
There is nothing quite like a good fashion auction.   I’ve written about Augusta Auctions, Christie’s auction of Elizabeth Taylor’s estate, and Thierry De Maigret.   Another drool-worthy set of fashion and accoutrements are set for the auction block in London on December 3rd at Kelly Taylor Auctions.
Leon Bakst for Diaghilev

Diaghilev’s Ballet Russe Scheherazade Costume for Young Man.   Designed by Leon Bakst, 1910.   Image courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions.

It was difficult not to squeal with delight flipping through the virtual catalog.   Aside from the beautiful curated offerings, photographs, and descriptions – the focus of the sale has a Russian spin.   There are several costumes from Diaghilev’s Ballet Russe available.   I have a big soft spot for the Ballet Russe, which was only intensified after my trip to the National Gallery this summer. (New to my site?   You should check out my previous post, Diaghilev and the Ballet Russe)
Ossie Clark

Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell Printed Chiffon Evening Gown and Cape, c. 1976.   Image courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions.

Costumes aside, there are some serious designers represented in the lot.   From Worth to McQueen, you’ll be able to find something to pine over.   I was delighted to see this Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell evening gown with a cape.   This power couple virtually created the fashion scene in England during the 1960s and 1970s.   Celia designed textiles while Ossie made garments for famous clients including: the Rolling Stones, the Beatles, Jimi Hendrix, Pink Floyd, Bianca Jagger.

 

Madame Gres

 

Madame Gres Black Silk Jersey Evening Gown, c. 1935-1944.   Image courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions.

There is a beautiful Madame Gres available.   The Grecian draping is always perfection.   In black, it’s timeless.

 

Edwardian Wedding Dress
Madame Hayward Bridal Gown for Regina de Bittencourt, 1914.   Image courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions.
The 1910s are represented with this gorgeous wedding dress.   It belonged to Chilean heiress Regina de Bittencourt.   The dress is accompanied by primary source articles, wedding photos, and an impressive provenance.
Cecil Chapman
 Ceil Chapman Mint Green Taffeta Evening Gown and Coat, c.1954-58.   Image courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions.
I pegged this evening dress and coat as Dior, but read that it was Ceil Chapman.   Chapman was an American fashion designer active in New York during the 1940s-1960s.   (She definitely merits an upcoming post!)   Grace Kelly was photographed wearing a similar coat.
Junya Wantanabe for Comme des Garcons 2
Junya Wantanabe for Comme des Garcons.   Denim dress, 2001.   Image courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions.

And my last favorite is this denim dress by Junya Wantanabe for Comme des Garcons.   The spiraling panels of denim and seam-work are too beautiful for words.   If I bought this, I’d never take it off!
close up Junya Wantanabe for Comme des Garcons

See what else is available on the December 3rd auction via the virtual catalog.

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Posted in: Art's Influence on Fashion, fashion, fashion and the body, Fashion as art, fashion history, Shopping, textiles, Vintage Tagged: auction, Ballet Russe, Ceil Chapman, Celia Birtwell, comme des garcons, couture fashion, Diaghilev, fashion, fashion auction, Junya Wantanabe, Kerry Taylor, Kerry Taylor auctions, Leon Baskt, madame gres, Ossie Clark, vintage fashion

Diaghilev and the Ballet Russe

July 17, 2013 / Leave a Comment

When I heard about the exhibit Diaghilev & the Ballet Russes 1909 – 1929 at the National Gallery of Art, I just knew I had to make a trip.  Two weeks ago, I made a special trip to Washington, D.C. to see it.  I was not disappointed!  The Ballet Russe was a dance company started in France during the late 19th Century.  Under Diaghilev’s vision, the Ballet Russe grew to be one of the greatest artistic collectives the world has ever seen.

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Russian-born Diaghilev (1872-1929) has worked as an art curator and journalist in St. Petersburg.  He had even worked as a creative director of the Imperial Theater.  Diaghilev helped promote Russian culture in France as part of this government position, and organized exhibitions of Russian fine art in Paris.  This initiative was cut short by the demise of the tsarist government.  When it became clear that the revolution was only a matter of time, Diaghilev left for Paris.
Screen Shot 2013-07-18 at 9.11.00 AM

Serge Diaghilev, New York City, 1916.  Image courtesy of The National Gallery of Art.

Eager to continue his career in the arts, Diaghilev saw the potential in ballet.  It was a relatively inexpensive operation, compared to opera.  He also had connections to some of the best Russian dancers.  He urged ballerinas from the Imperial Theater to spend summers in Paris dancing in his productions.  The public was spellbound by the aesthetics of the show.  Diaghilev saw the ballet not only as a way to promote Russian culture, but as a way to pioneer the careers of creative, avant-garde artists and designers.  He carefully selected dancers, composers, fashion designers, and artists to stage a self-contained world of innovation.
Screen Shot 2013-07-18 at 9.33.28 AM
Scenery from the ballet Scheherazade by Leon Bakst, 1910.  Watercolor, gouache, and gold paint on paper.  Image courtesy of The National Gallery of Art.
The exhibition is so vast it’s overwhelming.  There are over 130 original costumes, set designs, paintings, sculptures, prints and drawings, photographs, and posters.  The manner in which it is stages shows you how each ballet had a unique artistic direction.  This had to do in part with the artists and designers chosen to work on each production.
It ranges from sweet and romantic:
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Alexandre Benois, Russian, 1870-1960, Costume worn by Lydia Lopokova as a Sylph from Les Sylphides, c. 1916, silk and cotton net, with metal armature for the wings, V&A, London, Cyril Beaumont Bequest © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
nymph
Leon Bakst, Costume for a Nymph from The Afternoon of a Faun,” c. 1912, silk chiffon, lame’, metallic ribbon, cotton, National Gallery of Australia, Canberra.
nymph2
Leon Bakst, Costume for a Nymph from The Afternoon of a Faun, c. 1912, silk chiffon, paint, lame’, metallic ribbon, cotton, National Gallery of Australia, Canberra
To ethnographic . . .
RoerichGroup
Nicholas Roerich, Russian, 1874-1947, Costumes for two Maidens and an Elder from The Rite of Spring, 1913, wool, leather, metal belts and necklace, napped cotton, wood, and fur, V&A, London. Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
3413-091_ppt

Mikhail Larionov, Russian, 1881-1964, Costume for the Buffoon’s Wife from The Tale of the Buffoon, 1921, cane-stiffened felt and cotton, V&A, London. Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

 

 

 

 

20130717-200640.jpg

Mikhail Larionov, Russian, 1881-1964, Costume for the Buffoon’s Wife from The Tale of the Buffoon, 1921, cane-stiffened felt and cotton, V&A, London.  Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

To bohemian . . .

narcissus2

Leon Bakst, Costume for a Beotian Shepherd from Narcissus, 1911, painted cotton. V&A, London.

 

narcissus
Leon Bakst, Costume for a Nymph from Narcissus, 1911, painted cotton, V&A, London. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London
To Surrealist . . .
theball
Giorgio de Chirico, Costume for a Sylph from The Ball, 1929, silk and tarlatan, with braid.  2013 Artists Rights Society (ARS) New York/ADAGP, Paris. Photo © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
dechirico2
The General from Le Bal designed by Giorgio de Chirico, 1929  DACS, London 2006.  Image courtesy of I’m Revolting.
dechirico
The General from Le Bal designed by Giorgio de Chirico, 1929  DACS, London 2006.  Image courtesy of I’m Revolting.

 

3413-079_ppt

 Pablo Picasso, Spanish, 1881″“1973, Costume for the Chinese Conjuror from Parade, c. 1917, silk satin fabric with silver tissue and black thread, cotton hat with woolen pigtail, V&A, London © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

To Modernist . . .

3413-183_ppt

Sonia Delaunay, French, 1885-1979, Costume for title role from Cleopatra, 1918, silk, sequins, mirror, and beads, wool yarn, metallic thread braid, lame, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Costume Council Fund Pracusa 2012003; Digital Image© 2013 Museum Associates / LACMA / Licensed by Art Resource, NY

 

coco

 

Coco Chanel, Costume for La Perlouse from The Blue Train (right) and Costume for a Gigolo from The Blue Train (left), 1924, knitted wool and wool, respectively. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

When Diaghilev died suddenly in 1929, at the age of 57, the Ballet Russe disbanded.  Such a rich and varied artistic legacy was left behind by this patron of the arts.  I would recommend that everyone sees this show!  For additional information, please visit the following sites:

  • Ballet Russe: The Art of Costume
  • Diaghilev & the Ballet Russe 1909-1929 When Art Danced with Music (exhibition brochure)
  • The National Gallery of Art
  • 10 Costumes from the Ballet Russe . . .
  • Diaghilev & the Ballet Russe at the National Gallery of Art
  • The Victoria & Albert Museum

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Posted in: art, Art's Influence on Fashion, artists, artists i love, Designers I love, fashion, Fashion as art, fashion history, fashion influenced by art, Great Museums, textiles Tagged: Ballet Russe, Coco Chanel, costume design, de Chirico, Diaghilev, fashion, fashion history, Léon Bakst, Picasso, Sergei Diaghilev, set design, sonia delaunay, When Art Danced with Music

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